Support & FAQ

What’s the difference between Acrylic & Glass kits?

Acrylic: [The mobile / At-home/take-home recommendation – Best for Single Users]

+ About half the weight of Glass [26lb/~12kg with frame] [“can” be carried by one person, but still recommended to have two to avoid risk of damage to screen]

+ Non-breakable/Safer for mobility & transportation (such as moving in/out of rooms, or a home office)

+ Cheaper

– Scratches much easier than Glass, may require occasional polishing as scratches/wear develop from use (polish is provided in all Acrylic kits)

– Has ‘some’ flex in the material (not much) than glass which some people may find less comfortable to write on

+/- Slightly lower clarity/a bit more “cloudiness” of the screen but this is often undetectable with the right camera settings, and arguably not a huge difference from the glass when in use with the camera (but you would notice by eye) –> this “cloudiness” can also be a positive as well in some cases where bright uniformity/readability of text/writing on all areas of the screen is actually improved as a result

 

Glass: [The fixed-site / Multi-user studio recommendation – Best for Multiple Users]

+ Rigid & smoother writing surface/experience

+ Higher clarity of the screen (uses ‘Starfire’ glass) which will slightly improve overall quality of recorded content on higher resolution cameras

+ Much more robust to wear & scratches, ideal for multiple users/shared screens & studios

– Heavier [48lb ||~22kg with frame] –> Not ‘overly heavy’, but definitely recommended to have two people for any transportation of the screen to ensure safety

– Breakable (glass is not tempered and can break dangerously if mishandle or hit) –> should not be in or near “active” environments or small children 

 

NOTE: for cleaning/maintenance both screens, the process is surprisingly no easier or harder with either screen material. The process is exactly the same with the only difference is the ‘scratchability’ on the Acrylic that may need occasional polish [which is included in all Acrylic Kits], but many blemishes and scratches will be invisible to the camera in the end once you dim the display brightness down to the optimal level for recording anyways (highly recommended ‘trick’ to not kill yourself on cleaning).

What else will I need to set up my own studio with your kits?

The only other things you’ll need to complete your setup are:

  1. A Webcam (we recommend a USB webcam of at least 720p resolution or higher, and a viewing angle no greater than 78 degrees [ie: does not use a Wide-Angle or Fisheye lens])
  2. A microphone (USB microphone such as the Blue Yeti Nano is recommended)
  3. Software (we recommend OBS Studio, a Free, surprisingly powerful, Video Streaming software)
  4. Your PC to run software and host video calls/recordings as you normally would

 

Other items you may want to consider:

  1. An additional tripod for your selected camera (tripod included in kits not intended for devices)
  2. A power bar/extension cord for your studio
  3. A Backdrop ‘stand’ if you don’t have a flat wall available to you


*Note that we have ‘an’ option for all the above available on our Accessories page on the website for purchase

How much space do I need to setup a studio?

You will need an absolute minimum of a 5-foot x 6-foot area to setup your studio & camera, though it is recommended to have a few extra feet in each dimension available, if possible, for a more comfortable experience.

How long does it take to setup/install a kit?

We put extra effort in all of our kits to minimize the amount of work & complexity needed for users to setup their studios. The amount of time it will take to get set up will vary on space & customer, but approximately as follows:

 

  1. Assembly of the LightBoard unit: Approx. 30mins or less
  2. {For Sit-Stand Kits only} Assembly of Sit-Stand mechanism & Table top: Approx. 1 hour

Setup & Fine-tuning of studio, tenting & equipment: You will want at least 2 hours or more to play with this

Do I need special markers to use with the LightBoard?

“Yes and no.”

 

While there are several standard Dry-Erase markers that ‘will work’ on the LightBoard, there are very few that “Work Well”. The following are three brands of markers that we recommend:

 

Quartet EnduraGlide Dry-Erase Markers, Fine Tip [Currently Included in all Lightboard Kits] Source

  • Pros: 
    • Fine-Tip is very useful for writing smaller text and using more area of your LightBoard effectively
    • Very quick drying, making it the easiest/safest marker to erase & use with minimal risk of ‘smudges’
    • Very affordably priced
  • Cons: 
    • While all markers ‘can’ be visible under certain camera settings and lighting conditions, only 2 to 3 of the markers in the pack work ‘well’ in all situations – You will often need to give away 2 or 3 markers per pack.

 

  1. Quartet Neon Dry Erase Paint Markers Source
    • Pros: 
      • All 4 markers per pack work well, and typically much brighter
      • Relatively quick drying, but not as fast as Enduraglide and should be used with caution
      • Larger bullet tip still writes surprisingly ‘fine’ in early usage
      • Reasonably priced
    • Cons: 
      • Tip is not as fine as Enduraglide, still Bullet-tip, and so writing and text is a bit larger and harder to control for smaller writing space [chisel tip version currently unavailable]
      • Being ‘paint’ markers, the ink is a bit greasier than Eduraglide, and requires waiting a few seconds longer before being able to safely erase the marker without smudging/smears

 

  1. EXPO NEON Marker Dry-Erase Markers Source
    • Pros: 
      • By far the brightest marker you will find to use on your LightBoard, and good for environments that cannot become completely dark
      • All 5 markers show up vibrantly
      • Reasonably priced
    • Cons: 
      • Large Bullet-tip is not ideal for writing and making best use of LightBoard space [chisel tip version currently unavailable]
      • Ink is very greasy and takes a long time to dry before it can be erased, must be used with caution
      • Markers can often be TOO bright, in which in some setups, all markers will appear as ‘White’ regardless of colour due to oversaturation of the camera

Are you writing backwards?

No!

Why not just use a tablet?

Hear & Share more with the LightBoarding Community:

The LightHouse Vol.1: Cleaning

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The LightHouse Vol.2: Deep Cleaning

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The LightHouse Vol.3: Markers & Erasing

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The LightHouse Vol.4: A Word on Colours

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The LightHouse Vol.5: Camera Setting

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The LightHouse Vol.6: Getting Started with OBS

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The LightHouse Vol.7: Exporting and Recolouring PPT Slides for OBS

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The LightHouse Vol.8: Importing your Image Slide Show into OBS

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The LightHouse Vol.9: Bringing Back Erased Content

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The LightHouse Vol.11: Studio Look Filters

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The LightHouse Vol.12: Logitech Capture and the Lightboard

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